Omonia & inner city

Diporto taverna

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• 1 Theatrou & Socratous, Theatrou sq, 210 3211463 / Metro:Omonia / €

An unpretentious taverna cooks delicious fried mezedes and stewed dishes that were just bought at the local market.

Taverna Papandreou

• 1 Aristogitonos, Monastiraki, 210 3214970 / Metro: Monastiraki / €

Prepares excellent, hearty meals made with fresh ingredients from the local market. The place is open from noon, but it’s also worth showing up after a night out to join the clubbers who gulp the filling – if smelly - patsa soup. This meat-soup is made from innards of sheep and is considered to help your stomach cope with heavy alcohol consumption.

Klimataria

• 2 Plateia Theatrou, Varvakeios, 210 3216629 /Metro: Omonia / €

Another hidden treasure, where you find traditional, comfort food at a bargain. This place is very busy during lunchtime and you may have to wait to be seated, but it’s worth it.

To Petalo

• 10 Xanthis & Lelas Karayianni, Kipseli, 210 8622000 / Trolleybus or bus to Platia Kipselis / €

The owners have successfully created an unusual combination – traditional dishes with a modern twist at low prices are served while jazz music is playing on the background. On Sunday there’s a buffet at just 15 euros per person and since the food flies off the serving plates you better get there early. Open every night except Monday. Sunday for lunch only.

Lefteris

• 20 Satovrianthou, Omonia / Metro: Omonia /€

Hidden behind the Hondos Centre building in Omonia square, he is known for its delicious souvlaki.  

Dhaka Palace

• 26 Geraniou, Omonia, 210 5228604, Metro: Omonia / €€

Great Indian food and décor in the Indian-Pakistani neighbourhood of Athens. Go early (before 9) as the area is rather grim.

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Exarhia

I Kriti

• 5 Veranzerou Street, Kaningos square, inside the arcade, 210 3826998 / €

For a small but excellent selection of Cretan specialties, head to this inomagirio hidden inside the arcade. The snails, small cheese pies with honey and sesame, and the apaki meat is best accompanied by raki.

Yiantes

• 44 Valtetsiou, Exarhia Square, 210 3301369, Metro: Omonia / €€

Modern taverna that uses mostly organic ingredients and serves up original recipies.

Kavouras

• 64 Themistocleous, Exarheia, 210 3837981, Metro: Omonia / €

An old souvlaki joint open 24/7, with faithful after-hours clientele.

Rozalia

• 59 Valtetsiou, Exarhia Square, 210 3302933 / €

Students and youngsters make Rozalia a simple but lively taverna where excellent mezedes are brought on trays for you to choose from.

Achilleas

• 63 Valtetsiou, Exarhia, 210 3303216, Metro: Omonia / €

People from nearby offices flock here to eat veal with vegetables in this simple inomagirio.

Salero

• 51 Valtetsiou, Exarhia, 210 3813358, Metro: Omonia / €€

Spanish and more broadly mediteranean cuisine in a colourful bar-restaurant that opens onto a quiet garden at the back.

Athinaikon

• 2 Themistokleous (crn with Panepistimiou), Exarhia, 210 3838485, Metro: Omonia / €€

A landmark of ouzeri culture, it prepares an impressive line-up of mezedes in a dining hall decorated with large pictures of old Athens.

Lefka

• 121 Mavromihali, Exarhia, 210 3614038, Metro: Omonia / €€

Standard taverna dishes are served in this classic establishment. 

Street food: Souvlaki and more.Souvlaki is the king of Greek fast foods. It’s tasty, filling and super cheap and it’s best enjoyed with some tzatziki on the side. You’ll find it in several variations but the main version is pita bread stuffed with either beef or chicken skewers or with thin slices of beef/chicken (gyros) chopped off from a rotisserie. You then add all the extras, meaning copious amounts of tzatziki, onion, tomato, mustard sauce or even potatoes and you dig your teeth in. To avoid getting a plate with two plain skewers be sure to mention you want it wrapped (tylihto). Some of the best souvlaki can be found in souvlatzidika in the city centre and especially in Exarheia or Monastiraki. Another popular delight is the greasy hot dogs baked on the spot on small stalls strategically located outside after-hour hang outs. Don’t worry about finding them; the smell of grilled onions will guide you to them.

Ambelokipi

Balthazar Bar-Restaurant

• 27 Tsoha Street, on the corner of Bournazou, Ampelokipi, 210 6441215 / €€€€

An upmarket restaurant with a classic menu and a large courtyard open in summer. It doubles as a bar at night and offers a satisfying cocktail menu. The only drawback is that the music is played on low, to avoid complaints from the neighbours.