Right in the geographical centre of the Cyclades, Syros is the commercial and administrative capital of this insular complex, and still a far cry from a typical Cycladic island; its neoclassical architecture paired with the cultural and commercial heritage and a vibrant catholic community make Syros stand out from the other Aegean islands.
Staying in Syros
When visiting Syros by boat, you reach the port of Ermoupoli, the island's capital and the administrative centre of the Cyclades. The most recognizable landmark of Ermoupoli consists of the two hills of the town: on the left the hill of Ano Syra, with the church of Saint George atop, and on the right the hill of Dili with the church of the Resurrection.
To uncover the rest of its beauties visitors must wander the streets of Ermoupolis on foot. Do not hesitate to loose yourself in the narrow cobblestone streets, and you will be rewarded by the numerous mansions with carved marble façades and spend time window-shopping at the fine local establishments.
During the 18th and 19th century, Syros, specifically Ermoupoli, was the financial, commercial and sea-faring center of the Aegean Sea. Nowadays the island may have lost its pivotal trade role but it remains a vibrant town, full of people, activity and life, without any sign of introversion. In Ermoupoli, most of the touristic activity takes place along the quay, from the Neorion shipyards, on the left side of the port, to the district of Nissaki, at the old Customs House. Here, by the moored boats you can enjoy your coffee, taste local fresh fish and of course the famous lokums of Syros (also known as Turkish delights) and nougats (a flat type of pie with nougat) for dessert. The bars along the waterfront consist an ideal spot for late drinks.
Let Markos Vamvakaris guide your footsteps in your Ermoupolis stroll. Vamvakaris –1905-1972, one of the most emblematic figures of the Greek rembetiko music – was born and raised in Syros and composed several songs about his home island.
Sightseeing & Attractions
The best place to begin your walk around the town of Ermoupoli is the Miaouli main square, a square surrounded by cafes, shops and adorned by beautiful neoclassical houses. The main attraction of Miaouli Square is the impressive Town Hall, designed by famous German architect Ernst Ziller. A picture on the Instagram-famed stairs of the Town Hall is a must souvenir for tourists. The building's interior decoration is equally majestic: keep an eye for the carriage of the famous Princess Sissi (the Empress Elisabeth of Austria) and the elaborate frescos, as well as the enclosed patio with the lounge, which strongly resembles a Parisian cafe.
The Town Hall also houses the Archaeological Museum of Ermoupoli (+30 22810 88847, Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00) which exhibits interesting finds from excavations in the area of Chalandriani, such as Roman and Hellenistic sculptures and vases.
Visit the church of Transfiguration and the Metamorfosi, the oldest Greek Orthodox church in town, as well as the church of the Assumption, in the area of Psariana. The vestibule of the church, is adorned with an authentic painting by Domenicos Theotocopoulos, also known as El Greco. In the same district, you'll also find the town's Casino (+30 22810 84400), one of the few casinos operating in Greece.
A walk around Ermoupoli would be incomplete without a visit to Apollo Theatre, the local opera house, designed by the Italian archictect Pietro Sampo as a "miniature" of the famous La Scala of Milan. The Apollo was built to showcase the economic growth of Syros in the 19th century and even today hosts numerous cultural events and concerts. A little further away lays the church of Saint Nicolaos, with the twin bell towers, and the neighborhood of Vaporia, a district of fine houses, a heritage of the local captains of old Ermoupoli.
The local shipyards, once a source of wealth for Syros, are situated at the southern side of the port. The Industrial Museum (+30 22810 81243, www.ketepo.gr) houses an exhibition of the complete history of industrial Syros, with various machines, accessories and other objects that testify to the industrial heritage of the city.
The most picturesque and perhaps better preserved part of the town is the district of Ano Syra. Historically it has been the residential core of the vast catholic community of Syros, a medieval settlement with its own, strong identity and a characteristic architecture resembling a fortress – this was actually the initial purpose. Walking in the narrow streets of Ano Syros, you will encounter numerous multicolored doors and halls, as well as a museum dedicated to Markos Vamvakaris (+30 22813 60914), with photographs, manuscripts and personal belongings of the most important figure of the Greek rembetiko.
The hill of Ano Syra is where you find most catholic churches and monasteries of the island. Visit the Jesuit and Capuchins monasteries, the church of Our Lady of Carmel and of course the church of Saint George, the catholic cathedral. An interesting trivia is that the Catholic community in Greece has received a special permission from the Vatican in order to celebrate Easter on the same dates as the Greek Orthodox community, independently of the Catholic Easter celebrations around the world.
Sea Treasures
Syros is a relatively small island (approximately 102 km) and that makes it easy to explore from one end to the other. The coastal village of Azolimnos (about 5 km from Ermoupoli) is a recent addition to the "touristic" map of the island, in part thanks to its nice sandy beach. When southbound you meet Vari, another fantastic beach in a sheltered bay, greatly appreciated for its turquoise waters. The coastal road continues to Makri Gialos, with a number of nice bays and sandy shores (some of them are ideal for water sports), and Ampela, a beautiful beach with several options for food and drink.
Moving north you reach the town of Posidonia, also called Dellagracia, a village known for its mansions built according the European standards of the early 20th century. Follow the signs to reach two of the most popular beaches in Syros, Agkathopes and Komitos; the latter is probably the most popular beach among young people.
The village of Finikas disposes of a narrow sandy beach with several fine dining options. A bit further away you find Galissas, a village nestled in a picturesque bay of crystal clear waters. The locals, as well as the wooden signs will show you the way to the "hidden" church of Saint Stephen, at the end of a 40' hiking path, where you'll enjoy perhaps the best sunset on Syros.
The "beach tour" would ideally end in Delfini, an organized beach, and of course Kini, a little village that is also known for its Aquarium (+30 22813 60952) located mostly below sea level.
LIFO CHOICE
1. Lila's Guesthouse
Ioannou Kosma & Filikis Eterias, Ermoupoli, Syros, +30 22810 82738
An old stone mansion, which was restored in 2003, operates as a guest house with three rooms and three suites, equipped with everything you might need. The rooms also have an attic to accomodate a third person, while the suites are 50 sq. meters big. With two bedrooms for 4-6 people, a coffee maker, a fridge, a safe, air con and hair drier. The colour, the decoration and the furniture are aesthetically pleasing. It is ideally located close to the port should you need to take a trip to the nearby islands. It is also close to historical sites, the casino and nightclubs.
2. Filomila
Azolimnos Beach, +30 22810 62 088
http://mezedopoleio-filomila.gr
facebook.com/Μεζεδοπωλείο-Της-Φιλομήλας
Filomila's is an excellent choice for lunch or dinner when visiting the Azolimnos beach. This family owned restaurant has been operating for 13 years and belongs to the Aegean Cuisine network of restaurants. Filomila offers a menu of local food using only local produce based on Cycladic recipes. If you pay them a visit you will have the magical opportunity to dine right next to the sea.
3. Dyo tzitzikia st' armirikia
Kini, Syros, Tel: 22810 71151
https://www.facebook.com/Dyo-tzitzikia-st-armirikia-961547517218410/
Located in Kini, a beautiful village in Syros, this tavern is a great choice for lunch or dinner. Good food, traditional greek flavors and fresh, local products are the key point here. Situated right by the sea, beneath the trees, you will feel welcomed and breezy, whether you come in your swimsuit or dressed up a little bit more formally. Katerina and Yiannis will welcome and take care of you as if you were a guest in their home since they feel that the tavern is their home.
4. Django
9, Chiou & Parou str. Ermoupolis.
Tel: +30 22810 82801
www.facebook.com/DjangoIceCream/
If you crave for Ice Cream while you are in Syros, Django is the place to be. Konstantinos Karakatsanis is carefully chosing his ingredients from local producers, fresh fruit from the island and all over the world to make the most delicious ice creams in Syros.
More than 75 flavors of ice cream with excellent taste all made from organic dairy. Appart from the classic flavors you must also try the special tsoureki, chilli and bitter, cinammon, lemon and poppy seeds, mexican chocolate flavors and many more!
5. Shoot the Curl
9 Peloponnisou str.Syros, Tel: 2281 075492
www.facebook.com/pages/Shoot-the-Curl
This very special «Styling Bar» is a great space for anyone who wants to have a hair cut while on the island or maybe a stylish updo for a special night out. The people of «shoot the curl» will accomodate all your styling needs whether its new bangs or a hairdo straight from the '20s. This place will make you feel special and pampered. Check the monthly dates for live music and dj sets.
6. Elliniko Kafeneio
Miaouli sg. Ermoupolis
Tel. +30 22810-89248, 6936671094, 6936522837
Facebook: Ελληνικό Καφενείο
This place opened two years ago in the central square of the island and became an instant success. Based in an excellent newly restored building Elliniko Kafeneio (Greek Coffee shop) is the place to experience the greek way of life. Enjoy your coffee while gazing the magnificent town hall and when hungry try some of the local meze all cooked with local ingredients.
7. Podilato
1 Sperhiou & Milou, Ermoupoli beach, Syros, tel: +30 2810 89399
Come here for good coffee or come for a snack while you're spending the day at the beach. For drinks and cocktails, Podilato is your choice again. The music played is classic rock, reggae, new wave, jazz, funk, ethnic, etc, while on special occasions we have DJ sets. To find all of the above, come to Podilato.
