Greek Summer 2016: Amorgos

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It was not only the pristine waters and the typical Cycladic architecture of the island of Amorgos that made Luc Besson exclaim "eureka!" and film here a part of his famous film "The Big Blue", twenty years ago. This island, the easternmost of the Cyclades, attracts you with its wild natural beauty and the energy of its environment. And its people still greet you with an effortless "kalimera".

Staying in Amorgos

Amorgos is the 7th largest island of the Cyclades complex, with a surface of approximately 121 km2. The island's capital is called Chora or Amorgos, and is located roughly on the middle of the island. At the western part of the island you find the port of Katapola (6 km from Chora), and at the northern part the port of Aegiali (15 km). In Amorgos the infinite blue commands the horizon and the locals honor their traditions. Local songs, dances and festivals (mainly during August) form an integral part of everyday life and find a way into visitors' experiences as well. The famous local "simmered raki" flows abundantly while the traditional musical feasts start spontaneously and do not end till dawn. Everywhere in town you'll find charming little cafes and tavernas serving local delicacies like "patatato" (an Amorgian recipe with lamb braised in the oven with potatoes) and delicious fried pies. At night, visit the elegant little bars in town for one last drink. The port of Katapola forms a natural bay surrounded by three settlements: Katapola, Rachidi and Xylokeratidi. The pace of life here is as lively as in Chora with plenty of commercial and touristic activity but no nightlife. The other port of Amorgos, Aegiali, is a great starting point for excursions to the picturesque villages and beautiful beaches of the northern part of the island.

Sightseeing and Attractions

The Archaeological Collection of Amorgos is situated in Chora, housed in the Gavras Mansion (+30 22850 71831, 08:00-15:00), it is a collection that sheds light in the history of the island. In the main square stands the Church Museum exhibiting holy utensils, icons, old books, etc. Hovering over the beach of St. Anna, the 11th century Monastery of Our Lady Chozoviotissa (+30 22850 71274, 08:00-13:00 and 17:00-19:00) is literally carved in the rocks nearly 300 meters above sea level. According to tradition, the icon of the Virgin came here from Chozovo or Chazovo in Palestine in a miraculous way. You must climb as many as 300 stairs to enter the monastery, but the hospitable monks will meet and greet you with a nice treat. The villages of Amorgos are a sight for sore eyes, true expressions of the Cycladic architecture. In the north you will discover four picturesque villages crowning the bay of Aegiali. The touristic Ormos; Potamos, southern of Ormos, offering awesome views of Aegiali; Lagkada, with its picturesque streets, traditional tavernas and the little church of Agia Triada "hanging" from the cliffs; and the town of Tholaria, with its whitewashed streets, fine food choices, a spectacular sunset and limited but great choices for a drink.

Sea Treasures

Most of the beaches in Amorgos are lined with pebbles or rocks. Most are easily accessible, to the exception of one or two that require a map. The most popular beach is Agia Anna, the very same beach that "starred" in the film "The Big Blue". A landscape of wild, raw beauty, with crystal clear waters quite close to Chora. The nudist beach Kampi is located south of Agia Anna, towards the isle of Megalo Viokastro and can be accessed on foot. Next, you find the beach of Mourou, accessible by a hiking path. To get to the beach of Ammoudi you must hike for about 40 minutes, following a rather difficult path from the village of Arkesini. Next stop Paradise beach: a small bay with sand and pebbles, a few sunbeds and a canteen for coffee and snacks. The southernmost beach in Amorgos is Kalotaritissa, an organized, sandy shore with a real shipwreck, a perfect subject for great summer vacation souvenir pictures. Heading north from Chora, you will reach the spectacular beach of Saint Paul, with a characteristic strip of sand stretching into the turquoise waters towards the isle of Nikouria. Next, following the road to Tholaria, you encounter sandy Levrosos, shaded by trees.

Trips

At the beach of Kalotaritissa you can take a small boat (scheduled trips leave every hour until 18:00) and visit Gramvousa, a small, desert island with two sandy beaches. Boats from Katapola will take you to the beaches located inside the bay. Though you can also reach them by foot, a boat trip will allow you to admire the beautiful aquatic scenery. Among the beaches to visit, Maltezi is the only sandy and organized, the rest are rocky and ideal for nudists and lonely types.

Getting There: Amorgos has no airport, but both ports are connected daily with Piraeus. Usually the boat trip takes 9 to 12 hours from Piraeus to get to Amorgos, or about 4 to 5 hours on high-speed boats.

LIFO CHOICE

1. Botilia Bar
Ηora, +30 6936184321

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Botilia Bar

Everyone comes here to see the garden, to try the different and imaginative cocktails and to sing/dance at the – mostly foreign – music, from all genres and all decades.

2. Tratarisma pastry shop
Lagada village, +30 22850 73192, +30 6973270512

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Tratarisma

A lovely coffee-pastry shop set in a beautiful mediterranean garden awaits you in the village of Lagada. Antonis, the chef, prepares and offers every day a special breakfast and amazing delicacies! Come and enjoy the view of endless blue while tasting pastries, eastern sweets, tarts, cakes and all kinds of drinks!.

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