If you want to polish your French or Italian, Amorgos is the place to do it, because the island is full of tourists from these two countries – which proves their good taste. The easternmost island of the Cyclades is famous for its beautifully preserved main village, Hora, and its celebrated crystal clear waters, immortalised in Luc Besson’s movie The Big Blue. The island is a quiet place where you will enjoy archetypical Cycladic architecture, traditional customs and reasonable prices.
What to do
The island has two ports, Katapola and Aegiali, and plenty of small settlements inland which are worth a visit to observe the lifestyle of the islanders especially if you visit at the time of a panigiri (festivals held on saints’ days, the main one being on August 15th). Amorgos is dry and mountainous, with its three highest peaks reaching between 630-890 metres high. Walking, diving and climbing are some of the islanders’ favourite pastimes and Amorgos Diving Centre (Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73611, email: [email protected], www.amorgos-diving.com) plans all three. The small company started with diving trips around Amorgos’ coast line and soon added hiking and walking tours, all led by experienced guides. In recent years, local authorities have mapped and marked seven main footpaths which connect the main villages. This initiative has proved a great success, with groups of islanders and tourists criss-crossing hills and valleys all year round. As you hike through the arid land, you encounter small white churches (ksoklisia), cisterns built to retain much needed rain water, and herds of goats grazing between shrubs. Between the mountains, the hinterland reveals the valley of Kolofana at the west, the biggest on the island and the small valley of Katapola at the centre. Look up and you see the windmills standing proudly on the mountain ridge.
All those adventurous souls out there, you’d be happy to know that Amorgos has added itself in the geocaching community (an elaborate treasure hunt). If your mobile phone has a GPS, log in www.geocaching.com, follow the instructions and you’re good to go. The website www.amorgos-island-magazine.com has, among other island information, tips on geocaches stashed around the island, as well as a relevant map.
A walk around Hora reveals the slow paced life of the islanders. People leave their doors open, whiffs of oven cooked beef escape from the green and red shutters, and stray cats roam around lazily hoping to find a little something to eat. Just like the other Cycladic villages, this one also was under Venetian rule and has a castle to prove it. It was built by Jeremiah Gizis in the 13th century to defend the island against invaders who also built the church of Agios Georgios (Saint George). The mansion of Gavras houses the Archaeological Museum (open Tue-Sun 09:00-13:00 and 18:00-20:30) with its impressive selection of statues, parts of columns and utensils dug out from three ancient settlements on the island.
Tholaria is the most picturesque village inland from Aegiali and should be visited in the evening for dinner and a view of the sunset. Just 100 metres outside the village is Café Seladi (Tel: +30 6932 627365) the perfect place to stretch your aching feet, drink your coffee and take in the beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding hills. Langada village, just before Tholaria, is just as charming and worth a visit. Islanders gather at the square of the lower neighbourhood (kato gitonia) to play bocce with old ladies looking on from their house entrances.
Monastery
Perched perilously on a rocky mountain side 300 metres above sea level, the Byzantine monastery of Panagia Hozoviotisa, patron saint of the island, has a remarkable collection of rare icons and manuscripts. Climbing up the endless stone steps is a feat in its own merit, but the view from the small plateau, which marks the entrance to the monastery is well worth the effort. The monastery was built by Byzantine Empreror Alexios Komninos in 1088. If you’re in Amorgos on November 21st, join locals at the panigiri organised at the monastery for a special treat of free local specialties and loads of dance.
Another interesting sight on the island is the villa of Iannis Xenakis –Greek composer, theorist and architect– built for his daughter and her husband between 1966 and 1977, close to Lefkes village, overlooking the gulf of Tirokomos. Xenakis, who worked at Le Corbusier’s studios between 1947 and 1959, designed a typical Cycladic building with clear modernist elements, like the thunderbolt-like openings on the walls. It consists of four white separate buildings forming a curve.
Amorgos has a few beaches which are easily accessible, but for the rest you will need to do some easy or more serious hiking. Get a map, a bottle of water and walking shoes, and you’re ready to go. A favoured option is Agia Anna, whose crystal clear blue waters featured in The Big Blue. If you continue driving past Agia Anna, you will find Kambi, a beach popular with nudists. In southeastern Amorgos close to Vroutsi village is Mouros beach, which can be reached by car and then you descend a dirt path for 10 minutes to reach its rocky shore. Psili Ammos beach is a long stretch of sand with pristine water, which can be reached either by boat, or by a 35-minute walk. After a 20-minute walk from Ormos, you will see Levrosos, the perfect beach for nudists. At the south, there is sandy Perivolas, the small cove of Kato Kambos, Paradisia and Kalotaritisa. From Kalotaritisa you can cross by boat to the uninhabited island of Gramvousa for a swim. The quiet beach of Agios Pavlos is close to the namesake village. At the tip of the cove, a 10-metre long stretch of white sand forms a natural, picture perfect “peninsula”. If the beach is full by the time you reach it, walk about 20 minutes south of Agios Pavlos and you will find small secluded beaches. From the side of Katapola, you will find in turn the organised Maltezi beach, Agios Panteleimonas, Kato Akrotiri and Finikies.
Where to eat
Capetan Dimos taverna at Katapola serves the local specialty patato (oven cooked goat with potatoes), or other interesting dishes like octopus with ouzo and ginger (Tel: +30 22850 71020). Vitsentzos (Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 71518) has both meat and fish. The cook in Liotrivi (Hora, Tel: +30 22850 71700) makes a delicious beef with aubergine and feta, while Kathodon (Hora, Tel: +30 22850 74148) is where you will try the delicious meze and raki (strong alcoholic beverage boiled with sugar and cinnamon). At Loukaki taverna at Langada village you will eat traditional specialties and sing along rembetika songs every Saturday night. Panorama (Tholaria, Tel: +30 22850 73349) has live music and is strictly for meat lovers. Wherever available, try the local wine, cheeses (ladotiri, ksino), pies stuffed with desserts, olive oil, and figs. Amorgion shop (one in Katapola and one in Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 71552, 73187 respectively, www.amorgion.gr) sells products made locally, like pasteli (traditional sesame snack with honey), rakomelo (raki with honey), and Mekila –wordplay with tequila– which is an alcoholic beverage made from the juice of prickly pears. The lack of rain makes for great-smelling herbs which are brewed to produce herb teas and can be found on many grocery stores.
Yannis and his Dutch wife Merit have a lovely shop called Paschalitsa (Ladybug) at Aegiali (Tel: +30 22850 73564) selling decorative items, paintings of Merit, driftwood art, toys and jewellery.
Amorgian women are also known as excellent embroiders. The linen and silk white headscarves embroidered with floral patterns make for a gorgeous neck scarf. Their level of artistry and detailed work has earned Amorgian embroidery a place in the Metropolitan Museum of Art which houses a finely embroidered linen strip from the 18th century.
Amorgos is not a party island, but you will find a few quiet bars to sip your beer. At the port of Aegiali, Maestro is a daytime café which turns into a bar at night. At Katapola, the Moon Bar is a charming place almost hidden behind a large tree.
ACCOMMODATION:
Most of the available accommodation on the island is centred in Katapola and Aegiali. Camping Aegiali (Tel: +30 22850 73500). Aegialis Hotel & Spa (Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73180, 73181, www.amorgos-aegialis.com) is a classy hotel for those who want to be pampered. Lakki Village (Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73253) is situated right on the waterfront and offers very good food at the taverna. The one-year-old Aqua Petra (Agios Pavlos, Tel: +30 22850 73011) has 30 apartments near one of the most beautiful beaches.
GETTING THERE:
There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Amorgos. For ferry websites check the “Getting to and from the islands” section
LiFO CHOICE
Meli & Kanella
Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 71485
A traditional coffee house which resembles a bakery and a wine cellar, where you will find coffee, sage, sesame bars, cookies with honey and cinnamon, fresh lavender, boiled raki, tasty desserts, handmade ice cream and other delicacies.
Captain Dimos
Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 71020
It is the first thing you see at the port of Katapola. The wooden tables, chairs and the music will invite you to sit. The Mediterranean and Greek dishes prepared by chef Yannis Lourdaros are the ones that will win you over.
Triporto café–bar
Hora, Tel: +30 22850 73085
In an area which in the 1950s housed a traditional bakery is now a charming summer bar in white, decorated with blooming bougainvilleas. It opens in the morning serving Youli’s famous breakfast, homemade desserts and pies, and in the evening with good drinks and good music.
Grill House Victoras
Katapola, Tel: +30 22850 74101
If you’re looking for juicy and good quality meat, you will find them here. With local ingredients and meat of his own production, he has created a menu with food from the grill. There are also beers, wine and refreshments to choose from.
Amorgos Diving Centre
Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73611
If you’re passionate about scuba diving, this is the place to come. If you are a beginner, the qualified staff will safely introduce you to the secrets of diving. Apart from diving, the centre organises groups for hiking and climbing.
Botilia bar
Hora, Tel: +30 6936184321
A summery, breezy bar with a green garden and a large range of imaginative cocktails. The music is mainly international and includes songs from all decades and all genres.
Marouso
Arkesini,Tel: +30 22850 72331
Traditional taverna with well-made seafood lie stuffed kalamari, which is the specialty, and also meat dishes of her own production. Quality distillates and rebetika music complete the experience.
Evdokia’s car & bike rental
Aegiali village, Tel: +30 22850 73050, www.askaspension.gr
A car hiring company which can cover all your needs during your holidays. The company has a fleet of new cars and scooters (125 cc) available daily to those who want to explore the beautiful landscape of the island. To better serve you, the company delivers and picks up the car from any location on the island.
Aegialis Hotel & Spa
Aegiali, Tel: +30 22850 73393
A fully equipped hotel of 55 rooms with modern decoration. It is ideal for relaxation, quiet holidays, and spiritual and physical rejuvenation. It has two restaurants, a bar and an area for coffee. Services include yoga, dance lessons and other activities.
Kallisto confectionary
Hora village, Tel: +30 22850 74094
Located in a quaint alley of Hora, the chef prepares and offers daily an amazing breakfast and fine delicacies – all based on regional products. Eastern sweets, ice cream, cakes, tarts, but also drinks like coffee, herbal teas and distillates are waiting for you to try them.
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