If pirates roamed the Aegean today and had a treasure map with X marking the spot, that X would be Sifnos. The treasures of Sifnos are revealed to the traveller one by one. It’s the quaint village of Exabelos where time has stopped, the fresh seafood in Herronisos, the flat rocks from which you dive in the clear blue sea in Chrisopigi, the eclectic stores in Apollonia. The island is also the birthplace of Greece’s first famous chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, who authored the first complete cookbook on Greek and French classic recipes. The cookbook became a huge success and was reprinted at least 15 times with an overused copy found in almost every household. Modern Sifnians have embraced this heritage and pay attention to what is being served on the table. Sifnos’s success has been its ability to develop a healthy local tourism industry without altering the character of the island and its low-key charm. So low key, that the annual summer arrival a former Greek Prime Minister to the island goes largely unnoticed. Sifnians seem keen to keep things running this way, by focusing on quality and not quantity.
What to do
Entering the rocky harbour of the island, the visitor has the first view of Kamares, the second busiest village after the capital and main town, Apollonia. The village extends from one end of the harbour to the other with several grocery stores, bakeries and tavernas lining its sea shore. The sandy beach in the middle of the harbour is Agia Marina, which gathers mostly families and people playing beach rackets ferociously. The waters are clean and shallow, making them ideal for kids, while adults can find respite and a cold fruit juice on the wooden deck of Isalos café-restaurant (Tel: +30 22840 33716). Isalos is a relaxed all-day venue right on the beach serving Greek food with a modern note and one of the best places to watch the sun disappear behind the horizon. In Kamares you will find Simos taverna (Tel: +30 22840 32353), your necessary lunch break. Simos’ highlights include his hearty chickpea soup (revithada, a Sifnos specialty), freshly made mousaka and his other oven cooked dishes. For a different view of the harbour, head to far left edge of the whitewashed houses of Agia Marina to find Argiris taverna (Tel: +30 22840 32352) whose grilled meat and good service have won him a loyal clientele. Back in Kamares, the Italian L’Osteria Da Claudio (Tel: +30 22840 31671, open from 18:00-01:00, reservations preferred) is an elegant culinary surprise where Claudio cooks real Italian specials on a small terrace. The old bakery of Venios (Kamares, Tel: +30 22840 33650) sells the cheese pies and sweet cream pies (bougatsa) you will need to carry with you on your walks around the island.
With a path network of about 200 kilometres, Sifnos is perfect for hiking. The best season to hike is spring and autumn when the pastures are greener and wildflowers are in full bloom, but even in the summer Sifnos’s inland is still enchanting. The area which covers about 20 square kilometres and stretches from Profitis Ilias Mountain –where the namesake monastery stands– all the way to the western shores of the island was integrated into the European Network of Natural Protected Areas “Natura 2000”. Walking around the area, the visitor sees the dry stone walls built by islanders to limit ground erosion and define property boundaries, white pigeon houses, olive trees, herb bushes, wells, monasteries and churches, birds and small animals. The Ancient citadel of Agios Andreas (Tel: +30 22840 31488, open daily 08:30-15:00, except Mondays), the most important archaeological site of Sifnos, was first discovered at the end of the 19th century and proved the area was inhabited from Mycenaean times. The well preserved 10-acre citadel dominating the top of the hill shed light into the life, activities and beliefs of the people who inhabited the area. Apart from its historic significance, the area offers panoramic vistas of the island and the villages of Apollonia, Ano Petali and Artemonas. At the edge of the citadel stands the small church of Agios Andreas. The site is situated on the way to Vathi beach and can be reached by car. After you pass the 16th century Monastery of Firogia, turn right towards the hill of Agios Andreas.
Where to eat
The most popular beach is Platis Yalos, a long stretch of sand populated with couples and families. The village is fully organised with cafés, grocery stores, rooms to let and tourist agencies. The trendy beach café and bar Palmira (Tel: +30 22840 71283) is where youngsters go for light snacks and refreshing fruit juices during the day. Later on, the music is turned up and cocktails are served to people enjoying the sea view. Nearby, the Italian restaurant Mamma Mia (Tel: +30 22840 71219 / a second one exists in Apollonia– Tel: +30 22840 33086), owned by an Italian family, specialises in homemade pasta, pizzas, carpaccio and yummy buffalo mozzarella brought straight from Italy. For good old Greek cuisine, go to To Steki (Tel: +30 22840 71215) for a taste of its mastelo (goat with potatoes and cheese served in a ceramic bowl) and the excellent caper salad.
Apart from good food, Sifnos is also known for its high quality of pottery and there are several workshops in Vathi, the village where the art originates. At the family business of Atsonios (Tsopos beach at Vathi, Tel: +30 22840 71119, www.ceramicartatsonios.gr) Mr Atsoniou makes beautiful flower vases, mugs and bottles from clay, painted with eco paints. Here you may also buy the clay cooking pot used throughout the island to make the famous revithatha (chickpea soup). The workshop is open to visitors who are interested in seeing how humble clay turns into a beautiful and useful object. Vathi is also a popular beach with quiet waters and small sail boats anchored around the cove. A good eatery right on the beach is To Tsikali (Tel: +30 22840 71150) serving Sifnian staples like mastelo and their own mizithra cheese (fresh, soft cheese) served with capers and olive oil.
The most impressive location to swim is Chrisopigi, which has taken its name from the small, whitewashed church standing on a rocky peninsula. This peninsula separates Chrisopigi in two coves; the one on the left –as you face the monastery– forms a small beach called Apokofto with plenty of tamarisks for shade and two excellent tavernas waiting for you at the back. On the cove on the right is the very small, pebbled Saoures, favoured by those who want more privacy. This is also the only known beach in Sifnos where you might see nudists. The third spot for swimming is the flat rocks on the right side of the peninsula, where you will see people diving off the smooth rocks into the deep blue sea. The picture perfect location of the church has made it an ideal wedding location. All too often swimmers climbing up the rocks in the afternoon and entering the yard of Chrisopigi dazed by the sun, find themselves next to elegantly dressed guests who are waiting for the bride. The two excellent tavernas in Apokofto are Lembesis (Tel: +22840 71295) who serves the island specialty, chickpea balls and fried small shrimp, known as simiako garithaki, with plenty of house wine and a beautiful view of Chrisopigi. Further down the beach is Tsapis (Tel: +30 22840 71272) who has tables under the pines and specialises in casserole dishes.
To go off the beaten path, drive 15 kilometres to Herronissos at the northern part of the island. Herronissos is a forgotten fishing village, with a few houses and some anchored sailboats seeking refuge from the strong northern winds. The beach is small with colourful small fishing boats bobbing up and down the water and good fish taverns like Herronissos (Tel: +30 22840 33119) where you will lick your fingers after the aromatic fish soup (made similar to bouillabaisse), fresh lobster and seafood, and Romantza (Tel: +30 22840 33137) for fish and a view of the small harbour. On your way back from Herronissos, in the area of Troullaki, you will find Iliovasilema (Tel: +30 22840 31970) a taverna for die-hard fans of grilled meat and if you manage to get a table you will enjoy a beautiful sunset vista. Just before you reach Herronissos is Vroulithia, a beach with large pebbles, clear blue waters and a few sun loungers and umbrellas. The rocks and green waters of Poulati beach at the eastern coast make it ideal for snorkelling. To reach it you follow the signs to Poulati, then park by the small church and walk down the dirt path behind it. Remember to bring water and food because there aren’t any stores at the beach. At the south-eastern part of the island, close to Chrisopigi, are three coves forming the area and village of Faros. The fishing village has a small beach with shallow waters and sand. Fasolou is the quiet cove right next to it with plenty of tamarisks to lie under. If you don’t mind swimming in dark waters, head to the flat rocks of Eptamartires found below Kastro village. To get there, there’s a paved path from Kastro which leads to the mysterious Church of Eptamartires and from there another path on the left leads to the diving area.
Life in Sifnos
The picturesque main town of Apollonia wakes form its lethargic midday mode after 6pm, when the heat subsides. The town is comprised of a small noisy main square where buses from Kamares stop and the main narrow alley on the right leading into the heart of the village. This alley is called to steno (the alley) and quickly fills up with sun kissed faces going in and out of the jewellery shops. The traditional confectionary and café Tris Xanthi Angeli (Three Blond Angels, Tel: +30 22840 32294) their famous Greek-style donuts (loukoumades) with honey and cinnamon, or chocolate syrup are served peeping hot right out of the cauldron creating a small panic outside the shop. You need to get there before diner time to sit at one of the very few tables placed on the alley. Across the café is a small shop selling sarongs and canvas backpacks called drouvas, made locally. In a narrow street behind Tris Xanthi Angeli is the restaurant Adieksodo (Tel: +30 22840 31542) spread out on several levels, with hearty local meals most of which are based on meat. Locals call Apollonia and the almost merged quarter of Ano Petali, Stavri (Stavros means cross) because, when seen from above, the white square buildings form a cross. If you walk back to the main square and then turn left towards Artemonas, you will find Vengera café (Tel: +30 22840 3335) serving delicious traditional desserts and crepes and two doors down Veranda café (Tel: +30 22840 33969), a modern establishment with great views of Kato Petali and Paros. Apollonia is home to a Folklore Museum, two pharmacies and a few banks.
The picturesque village of Artemonas is a few minutes’ walk from Apollonia and is much quieter than the main town. Old mansions are scattered around the cobbled alleyways with colourful blooms in pottery pots, old whitewashed churches, traditional bakeries and a few tavernas on the main square. Walk towards the windmills at the eastern part of the village, known as Bella Vista, for a spectacular view over Kastro and the sea. Every September, the islands’ cultural association organises a three-day festival of Cycladic gastronomy in honor of Nikolaos Tselementes. Visitors to Artemonas have the opportunity to taste local specialties and participate in the celebrations. After your walk, find Manganas taverna (Tel: +30 22840 32051) for a roundup of local specialties. Inside a side alley is the restaurant To Perivoli (Tel: +30 22840 31045, open 18:00-01:00), with tables spread in a lovely yard under the stars. Perivoli which attempts a more elegant approach to Sifnian staples with products cultivated in their own garden. The well-known confectionery Vasilios Theodorou (tel: +30 22840 33472) makes delicious sesame bars made with local honey, pies with white halva, marzipans and small pastries. Equally attractive to its desserts is the interior decoration of the confectionary, typical of a 1960s local mansion. Across Manganas taverna is Margarita café (Tel: +30 22840) where you can drink your Greek coffee and sample a few mezedes.
Kastro
The cluster of whitewashed houses and walls which form the medieval fortification of Kastro village in the eastern coast is all about location. The sight of the village on the hill-top as you approach it by car is like a postcard. The buildings inside the settlement form two circles, with the inner one made up of the houses of the rich and the outer circle from more simple constructions. Cars are not allowed in, so you are able to enjoy a quiet walk through the archways and meandering alleys. The cafés of Kastro, strategically located towards the east, allow for sweeping views of the ocean and the nearby islands. To Kastro (Tel: +30 22840 31476) at the entrance of the village, is a simple taverna with great views. To the west of Kastro village, below the hill, is the pebbled beach of Seralia, home to the hip restaurant Ta Vatrahia (Tel: +30 22840 33047). The pricey, all-white restaurant specialises in gourmet seafood dishes and fresh fish served around a pool.
Nightlife
When the moon is up, head back to the steno (the main alleyway) of Apollonia for the first drink of the evening. Botzi bar has a relaxed atmosphere and several small rooms which lead to an open yard at the back, where drinks are served. Further down is Argo bar, an all-time classic venue with people seated ion built-in sofas and small tables on two levels. For a rock feel, head to To Doloma bar and drink your beer mingling with the others outside. If you’re staying in Kamares, go for a drink to Old Captain’s, an old bar with dark wooden floors and an opening to the beach. Further up the alley is Kikladon Horos (Tel: +30 22840 32211, 32215) a beautiful multi venue setting the tone in Apollonia. The venue houses a small gallery, a shop, a romantic restaurant (called Fegaropsaro) and a coffee shop (called Rabagas) spread out in large back garden, with tables set under the pines for a coffee or a drink.
The riotous panigiria (festivals held on saints’ days) taking place in Sifnos are for locals the opportunity to get together and celebrate with plenty of food and wine set on long tables outside the churches. During the summer, there’s one on the 20th of July at the Church of Profitis Ilias (there are two Profitis Ilias churches; the one closer to Kamares is really special) and on the 1st of September at the church of Agios Simeon. The festival on the 15th of August (on Assumption Day) is celebrated all around Greece, but it is more colourful in the Cyclades.
ACCOMMODATION:
Hotel Myrto (Kamares, Tel: +30 22840 32055, 32386, www.hotel-myrto.gr) is a lovely family-run hotel with great views of the harbour. Rouvina (Tel: +30 22840 31416) has simple, clean rooms overlooking Chrisopigi monastery, Elies (Tel: +30 22840 34000, www.eliesresorts.com) is a beautiful and pricey resort hotel at the edge of Vathi beach. Niriides (Platis Yalos, Tel: +30 22840 71530) has comfortable rooms with a sea view and Aris & Maria (Tel: +30 22840 31161, www.arismaria-traditional.com) the beautiful traditional homes inside Kastro.
GETTING THERE:
There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus port with Sifnos. Check the “Getting to and from the islands” section for ferry websites.
LiFO CHOICE
Verina Villas
Vathi, Tel: +30 22840 71525, www.verina.gr
A combination of traditional Cycladic simplicity, modern design and the element of nature in the inner spaces. The villas are the ideal place which meets the demands of every visitor and provides them with every possible facility.
Verina Suites
& Pool Bar
Platis Gialos, Tel: +30 22840 71525, www.verina.gr
Close to the most crowded beach of Sifnos and surrounded by groves, it consists of four luxury maisonettes and two autonomous suites. All of them are built and designed based upon the architecture of the island. You ’ll have a relaxing time by the pool and refreshing cocktails by the bar.
Astra Verina
Poulati, Tel: +30 22840 71525, www.verina.gr
A few minutes away from Apollonia, the capital of Sifnos, you will find a cluster of seven fully equipped suites.
Exodos club
Apollonia
This venue in Apollonia opened this year and is one of the few offering entertainment until late at night. Good music, especially Greek music, from resident DJs set the rhythm for Sifnos’ nightlife.
Kavatza
Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 35154
Opens in the morning (all day) and there are two reasons why you should visit it apart from its excellent products: The first one is its huge pool and the second is the amazing view, offered because of its location on the edge of a cliff.
Veranda
Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 33969
An all-day café-bar-restaurant which serves coffee, juices and breakfast in the morning, cold appetisers, light courses, salads and desserts for lunch and drinks at night. The venue also offers bartending and bar-catering services in weddings and other events.
Mamma Mia
Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 33086, Platis Gialos, Tel: +30 22840 71219, www.mammamiasifnos.com
This year it will be the 25th anniversary of the day the Milano family opened the first Mamma Mia restaurant on Platis Yalos. A few years later, the second one was opened in Apollonia setting the standard in Sifnos’ gastronomy. In the menu you will find traditional and homemade pasta, authentic pizza, even carpaccio. Its dishes are based on local raw materials from farmers and fishermen of the island, as well as on ingredients which are shipped every week from Italy.
Palmira Café-Bar
Platis Gialos
Chill out beach bar located on the beach of Platis Yalos in Sifnos. It has couches and sun loungers to relax; it offers breakfast, tasty cold appetisers and selections of Italian meats which you can accompany with cold beers or wine. Don’t forget to try the special cocktails prepared by the talented bartenders.
Ω3
Platis Gialos
At Platis Gialos beach, right on the seafront, a brand new venue has opened with seafood and Mediteranean dishes with the quality guaranteed by the Milano family.
Cayenne restaurant
Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 31080, www.cayenne-restaurantsifnos.gr
An ideal space with a lovely summer yard where chef Nikos Neroutsos creates a mix of classic Greek and modern Mediterranean cuisine. The painting exhibitions organised every summer on the floor above the restaurant are a plus.
Oasis
Apollonia, Tel: +30 22840 33963
Here you will find a wide range of clothes from known or up-and-coming Greek designers like Lila Nova, Stelios Kourdounaris , Elisavet Kapogianni , Athina Klo , Apostolos Mitropoulos and more. The store also offers yoga classes.
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